Gold Beach
May 27, 2013 11:09 AM
Gold Beach lies on the Oregon coast about 35 miles north of the California border, occupying a narrow strip of sand about two miles long and roughly a quarter-mile wide. We arrived here last Tuesday after an uneventful drive from Grants Pass and settled into the best parking spot in Ireland’s Ocean RV Park. We picked Gold Beach and this park because we stayed here for five days in 2008—in the same site—and thoroughly enjoyed our stay.
The town of Gold Beach, located on the mouth of the Rogue River, sprang up in the 1800’s mostly to support the timber and fishing industries. First named Ellensburg, it was renamed when gold was discovered in the sediment flowing out of the river. The gold boom was short-lived and the town soon returned to timber and fishing to support itself. As both industries waned, tourism became the mainstay of the town. It’s still a blue-collar town, simple but very friendly and accepting. Deep-pocket tourism has evaded Gold Beach, so the primary businesses in town include motels and inns, restaurants, gas stations, two grocery stores, and Jerry’s Rogue Jets, which takes passengers on high-speed jetboat tours up the Rogue River. Jerry’s also has a mailboat contract with the Post Office to deliver mail to the little town of Agness, one of two mailboat routes left in the U.S.
We haven’t done a lot while here, partly because about half the time since arriving it’s been rainy, windy, and cool. It’s still early to be on the Pacific coast. The constant on-shore breeze brings low temperatures ashore from the 51º F (10.5º C) seawater. Since we’re parked about 200’ from the water, we’ve had very cool temperatures. Add to this the passing rain showers, and you have a mostly-indoor scenario. We’ve caught up on bill-paying and the like, did some reading, listened to music, and planned a diet that’s going to get us back down to fightin’ weight by next fall.
We have gotten out enough to tour up and down the coast. It’s a beautiful area—turquoise sea, white surf, gray-white sand, dark volcanic haystack rocks, and deep green hills. Once again we’ve been amazed at how remote and rural the Oregon coast is. Most of it seems almost uninhabited, like we’ve just discovered it. Few of the beaches are improved or maintained, leaving them in their wild state.
We love it—especially Ann and Muffin. Ann grew up within sight of the beaches south of Durban, South Africa, and is at her happiest when she has sand between her toes. I think she’s spend all day sitting in the sand watching the waves if the pup and I would let her. It’s good to see her absorb the experience. And her “daughter” takes after her. In our 2008 Gold Beach post, Ann said, “Puppy has decided she is a beach dog or maybe a bird dog… she goes crazy when we take her out on the sand… she bounces around, digs holes, chases the birds or her ball and generally has a blast, although she has discovered chasing and catching tennis balls comes with a mouthful of sand. She doesn’t like that much.” I could write exactly the same words today. Being back at the beach is like coming home to Muffin—she loves it!
We also discovered a new business in town—a brewery! The Arch Rock Brewing Company has been in business since January and currently has three excellent beers available: a porter, a pale ale, and a lager. They don’t have an actual tasting room yet but you can stand in the front part of the brewery and sip samples while talking to Larry, the owner, and Charles, the brewmaster. That’s about as close as you can get to fresh beer. Luckily, the brewery is next door to the Hunter Creek Bar & Grill, which has their beers on tap. By the way, the Hunter Creek Bar & Grill quickly became our favorite hangout in Gold Beach. Nice beer and food, nice people, and a nice setting.
Tomorrow we move 22 miles up Highway 101 to Humbug State Park, set in the forest and sheltered from the coast by Humbug Mountain. I understand it’s a lot warmer there, which will be welcome. I also understand there’s no phone, Internet, or TV service there, so we’ll be incommunicado for a few days. Should be interesting.
Alan
The town of Gold Beach, located on the mouth of the Rogue River, sprang up in the 1800’s mostly to support the timber and fishing industries. First named Ellensburg, it was renamed when gold was discovered in the sediment flowing out of the river. The gold boom was short-lived and the town soon returned to timber and fishing to support itself. As both industries waned, tourism became the mainstay of the town. It’s still a blue-collar town, simple but very friendly and accepting. Deep-pocket tourism has evaded Gold Beach, so the primary businesses in town include motels and inns, restaurants, gas stations, two grocery stores, and Jerry’s Rogue Jets, which takes passengers on high-speed jetboat tours up the Rogue River. Jerry’s also has a mailboat contract with the Post Office to deliver mail to the little town of Agness, one of two mailboat routes left in the U.S.
We haven’t done a lot while here, partly because about half the time since arriving it’s been rainy, windy, and cool. It’s still early to be on the Pacific coast. The constant on-shore breeze brings low temperatures ashore from the 51º F (10.5º C) seawater. Since we’re parked about 200’ from the water, we’ve had very cool temperatures. Add to this the passing rain showers, and you have a mostly-indoor scenario. We’ve caught up on bill-paying and the like, did some reading, listened to music, and planned a diet that’s going to get us back down to fightin’ weight by next fall.
We have gotten out enough to tour up and down the coast. It’s a beautiful area—turquoise sea, white surf, gray-white sand, dark volcanic haystack rocks, and deep green hills. Once again we’ve been amazed at how remote and rural the Oregon coast is. Most of it seems almost uninhabited, like we’ve just discovered it. Few of the beaches are improved or maintained, leaving them in their wild state.
We love it—especially Ann and Muffin. Ann grew up within sight of the beaches south of Durban, South Africa, and is at her happiest when she has sand between her toes. I think she’s spend all day sitting in the sand watching the waves if the pup and I would let her. It’s good to see her absorb the experience. And her “daughter” takes after her. In our 2008 Gold Beach post, Ann said, “Puppy has decided she is a beach dog or maybe a bird dog… she goes crazy when we take her out on the sand… she bounces around, digs holes, chases the birds or her ball and generally has a blast, although she has discovered chasing and catching tennis balls comes with a mouthful of sand. She doesn’t like that much.” I could write exactly the same words today. Being back at the beach is like coming home to Muffin—she loves it!
We also discovered a new business in town—a brewery! The Arch Rock Brewing Company has been in business since January and currently has three excellent beers available: a porter, a pale ale, and a lager. They don’t have an actual tasting room yet but you can stand in the front part of the brewery and sip samples while talking to Larry, the owner, and Charles, the brewmaster. That’s about as close as you can get to fresh beer. Luckily, the brewery is next door to the Hunter Creek Bar & Grill, which has their beers on tap. By the way, the Hunter Creek Bar & Grill quickly became our favorite hangout in Gold Beach. Nice beer and food, nice people, and a nice setting.
Tomorrow we move 22 miles up Highway 101 to Humbug State Park, set in the forest and sheltered from the coast by Humbug Mountain. I understand it’s a lot warmer there, which will be welcome. I also understand there’s no phone, Internet, or TV service there, so we’ll be incommunicado for a few days. Should be interesting.
Alan
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